It could be considered a foodie’s nightmare: restaurants closed, with limited curbside and takeout options, shortages and purchase restrictions on some foods and meats.
After sheltering in place, I decided to assess my food supply, and went rummaging through my pantry and perusing my cookbooks. The task awakened the iron chef within to begin cooking with what I had on hand.
Take a pantry inventory yourself, and chances are you will be surprised how many basic and stock ingredients you’ll find stuffed in the cupboard and freezer. So grab the cookbooks, open that collection of online saved recipes or give mom a call for a recipe or two. Then, light the stove and pre-heat the oven and start cooking and baking.
But wait. You say you don’t know how. I can help, along with a few of my friends, who are counted among St. Louis’s best culinary experts and restaurateurs.
To learn how to bake, turn to Helen Fletcher, Tony’s pastry chef, cookbook author and baking diva, who through her website, pastrieslikeapro.com, continues to teach and inspire novice to experienced bakers.
“When you bake, there is a satisfaction that occurs that you don’t necessarily have with cooking. Think about it. Who pulls out a sheet pan dinner from the oven and says wow, look at this? Nobody. But if you pull something out of the oven that you’ve baked, everyone gets excited,” Fletcher said. “I think that’s why people turn to baking in a situation like we’re in now, because baking something is a treat, a real treat. Baking is one way to take your mind off everything that’s going on.”
According to Fletcher, anyone can learn to bake. And I agree. Baking doesn’t have be complicated or stressful. It can be simple. There are lots of things you can bake with a few simple items. When she was working on her cookie book, Fletcher was amazed at how many different cookies that could be made with flour, butter and sugar, which will all taste different.
“After decades as a professional baker, I still get the biggest kick out of it. Baking is a joy,” she said.
Like her, I also love to bake. In fact, back in the day when I made regular appearances throughout the area’s historic sites, demonstrating vintage artisan bread baking, I was known as the St. Louis bread lady. These breads featured stone-ground flours, sourdough starters and were baked into free-form loaves, which I would pair with dishes that represented the site I was at – dishes now considered comfort foods.
Comfort foods can be defined by many things. Beyond bread, comfort foods, for me, include what mother used to make, and the specialties I love to eat at my favorite restaurants. These are foods I can’t wait to indulge in once again, when restaurants reopen. Luckily, some of my favorite eateries have been able to stay open for carryout.
To satisfy my cravings for a few of those restaurant foods I’ve been missing, I’ve asked for a recipe or two for chefs to share. Play iron chef and see how many you can replicate from your own pantry. But don’t forget – once the all-clear is sounded and dining rooms reopen, make reservations. Until then, stay calm and cook and bake on.
Helen Fletcher’s Cocoa Brownies
This recipe was created based on an old recipe Fletcher found on a cocoa can entitled Pantry Cocoa Brownies. If you find a can of cocoa in your pantry, this is a must-try.
2/3 cup unsifted natural unsweetened cocoa powder (55 grams or 2 scant ounces)
1/2 cup all-purpose flour (70 grams or about 2 1/2 ounces)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
3 eggs
2/3 cup packed dark brown sugar (130 grams or 4 1/2 ounces)
1 1/3 cup unsifted powdered sugar (170 grams or 6 ounces)
2/3 cup canola or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon vanilla
Preheat the oven to 325 F with the rack in the middle. Line the bottom of a 9-inch square pan with parchment. Spray the parchment and sides of the pan. Set aside. Measure the cocoa, flour, salt and baking powder, and sift them through a strainer. Both the flour, and especially the cocoa have a tendency lump. Beat the eggs and both sugars for about 3 minutes or until fluffy and lighter in color. Add the oil and vanilla, mixing until completely combined. Add the flour mixture and beat on low, just to combine. Pour into the pan, level the mixture and bake for 28 to 33 minutes until a tester comes out with a few moist crumbs clinging to it. Yields 16.
Beer Batter Bread
Afraid to work with yeast? Well, stay calm, open a beer and make Beer Batter Bread. It’s a quick bread my culinary students always loved. Bake a loaf and serve it with any of the following recipes, courtesy of a few of my favorite chefs and restaurateurs.
2 cups self-rising flour
2 tablespoons sugar
12 ounces beer, (Budweiser or Bud Light)
1/2 cup salted butter, melted
Preheat oven to 350 F. Spray a standard-size loaf pan with nonstick spray. In a large mixing bowl, combine self-rising flour, sugar and beer. Stir until combined. Pour into the loaf pan. Pour half the melted butter evenly over batter. Place the loaf pan on the center of the rack and bake for 1 hour or until golden brown and the center comes out clean when a toothpick is inserted in the center of the loaf. Brush the remaining melted butter over the bread while still hot and in the pan. Remove from pan and let cool for 20 minutes before cutting and serving. Makes one loaf.
Blueberry Hill’s Chicken Noodle Soup
When the Duke of Delmar, Joe Edwards, first opened Blueberry Hill in 1972, there were only hot dogs, peanuts and beer nuts on the menu. After nearly 50 years, the menu now features retro-comfort fare served with a side of nostalgia.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped carrot
3/4 cup chopped celery
1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 1/2 teaspoons dried basil
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
8 cups chicken broth
10 ounces cooked chicken, white and dark meat, diced
3 ounces dried linguine, broken in half
In a large, heavy pot, heat oil until shimmery. Stir in onion, carrots and celery, sauté until onions are translucent, stirring occasionally. Stir in garlic, basil, pepper, salt and chicken broth. Bring to a boil and let simmer until carrots are knife tender with just a bit of resistance. Add chicken and linguine and cook for 10 to 15 minutes until linguine is done. Sauté onions, celery and carrots in oil until onions are translucent. Add remaining ingredients except noodles, and cook until carrots are tender. Add noodles and cook another 10 to 15 minutes. Serves 9.
Al’s Salad
Al’s has witnessed and survived the Great Depression, Great Recession, World War II and downtown’s changing riverfront. It will survive the COVID-19 restrictions, too. Al’s Salad, tossed with house dressing, remains its specialty.
1 head romaine
1 small endive
2 hard-cooked eggs, quartered
12 boiled shrimp
6 anchovies
12 stuffed green olives
Wash, dry and break lettuces into bite-size pieces. Toss with Al’s dressing. Place on a platter and garnish with hard-cooked eggs, shrimp, anchovies and olives.
Dressing
3/4 cup corn oil
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
1 pressed garlic clove
Salt and fresh ground pepper
Combine ingredients until well blended.
LoRusso’s Chicken Teresa
I’m not sure who Teresa is or was, but I love her namesake, Chicken Teresa. A classic that’s been on the menu at at LoRusso’s since its beginning; a comfort food anyone’s Nonna would enjoy.
4 six-ounce boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 tablespoon virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon dry parsley
1 sprig fresh rosemary
Salt and pepper, to taste
Mix together and let allow to marinate in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 hours.
Sauce
2 tablespoons minced onion
2 cloves minced garlic
2 tablespoons softened butter
1/3 cup dry white wine
1 1/2 cup chicken broth
Pinch of red pepper flacks
1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon milk
Italian breadcrumbs
Provel cheese
Sauté onion and garlic in the butter until soft, add remaining items and heat to a slow boil. Add cornstarch mixture and whisk until smooth and sauce thickens. To finish the sauce, add 1 cup broccoli florets and 1 cup thick-sliced mushrooms and heat through. Heat an outdoor grill or pre-heat oven broiler. Dredge the chicken in Italian seasoned breadcrumbs and cook, turning to promote even browning, and cook until 165 F internal temperature is reached. Top chicken with slices of provel or any white cheese of your choice, and melt. Arrange the cooked chicken on a serving platter and carefully pour the sauce over top. Makes 4 servings.
