Homage to Cashew Chicken

Springfield, Missouri can claim many things: The birthplace of Bass Pro; the place where Route 60 officially got its official makeover designation to Route 66; and as the birthplace of Cashew Chicken.

Now a mainstream Chinese-American dish appearing on menus nationwide, it was created by Springfield’s legendary restaurateur and chef, Wing Yin (David) Leong.

Sadly, Leong died on July 20, a month shy of his 100th birthday, but his legacy survives at Leong’s Asian Diner, operated by his son, Wing Yee. There, Cashew Chicken continues to be venerated as the culinary masterpiece, and is a culinary landmark that countless foodies and Springfield Cashew Chicken aficionados annually visit.

To fully appreciate Cashew Chicken, one should learn the story of the man who created it.

Wing Yin Leong, who adapted the name David after coming to the U.S., was born in Guangzhou aka Canton, China, immigrating in 1940, prior to the Japanese invasion of China, and prior to World War II. Within four years, Leong would become a naturalized citizen and be drafted into the U.S. Army, which took him into battle on Normandy Beach on D-Day. After the war, Leong worked in various restaurants as a cook. While working in New Orleans, he was offered the opportunity to cook in Springfield, Missouri. Within a few years of making the Missouri move, Leong opened his own restaurant, The Tea House, where in 1963, Cashew Chicken was born. The dish was originally created to entice more locals to visit his restaurant.

The recipe is relatively simple. It combines the elements of Southern fried chicken with a classic Cantonese-style brown sauce enhanced with oyster sauce, garnished with cashews and chopped scallions.

The tea room remained open until 1997, then Leong closed it after the death of his wife. However, his son, Wing Yee, reopened in 2010 as Leong’s Asian Diner, where both father and son proudly featured the legendary dish.

I was lucky to have met David Leong a few years back, who up until his death could always be found at the restaurant, happily greeting customers. Indeed, he will be missed, but his legacy will continue with every plate of Cashew Chicken served. The recipe has never been a secret – always generously shared by the Leong family to anyone who asked for it.

LEONG’S CASHEW CHICKEN
Servings: 4 to 6

SAUCE

3 1/2 cups chicken broth

1/4 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons oyster sauce

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 pinch ground ginger

1/8 teaspoon sesame oil

1/4 cup cornstarch

1/4 cup water

To make sauce, combine chicken broth, soy sauce, oyster sauce, sugar, ground ginger and sesame oil in a 2-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer. In a separate bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and water. Whisk into sauce and cook until thicken.

FRIED CHICKEN

4 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons seasoned (Lawry’s) salt

1 ground white pepper

2 tablespoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper (optional)

3 eggs

3 cups whole milk

2 pounds chicken breast, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 cup roasted cashews, for garnish

1/2 cup chopped green onion, for garnish

Set a fryer to 350 F. In a bowl, combine flour, seasoned salt, white pepper, garlic powder and cayenne pepper. In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs and milk. Dredge each piece of chicken with the flour mixture, then dip in egg and milk mixture, dip back into the flour mixture and place on a baking sheet. Place flour-coated chicken pieces into the hot oil and fry for two to three minutes. Remove from fryer and drain on paper towels. Just before serving, flash fry to re-crisp. Drain, place on a serving plate and pour sauce over top (chicken can also be tossed with sauce before being plated). Garnish generously with cashews and green onion. Serve with steamed rice.

Recipe courtesy of Leong’s Asian Diner