Dining is all about experience – the food and service, which culminates with the experience it creates. Aaron Martinez, executive chef at Elaia and Olio, the flagship restaurants in the culinary crown of Ben Poremba’s Bengelina Hospitality Group, strives nightly to make that experience unforgettable.
“Dining is about the experience, ” said Chef Martinez, who begins as any chef does, with an emphasis on food. “I’m not driven by trends. I’m driven by flavor. I try to maximize flavor out of my ingredients by transforming them into something special. I love to let the food speak.”
Martinez’s passion for natural flavors and local ingredients was a love intensified through his training. A native southern Californian, his training included stints as sous chef at the prestigious Addison at The Grand Del Mer in San Diego, under the tutelage of four-time James Beard-nominated Chef William Bradley. He also served as Chef de Cuisine at San Francisco’s Quince and the Michelin two-starred eatery, Commis. This is the kind of experience that gives Martinez a creative edge, yielding a style that makes Elaia’s and Olio’s menus pop, especially at Elaia, where his plates are elevated to a level I describe as contemporary chic. It’s a gourmet excursion that’s favorable and fun.
Martinez locally sources the best ingredients for both Elaia and Olio, a unique restaurant duo situated on the same piece of real estate. Elaia is housed in a vintage bungalow and features an eclectic menu served on white tablecloths amidst arty contemporary decor. Olio occupies the old gas station next door – urban rustic-chic in both decor and its classic Mediterranean-influenced menu. The two are connected via a patio entrance. Turn left for Elaia, right for Olio. On my visit, I turned left and claimed the stairs to Elaia’s dining room where Chef Martinez’s menu includes multi-course dinners offered with or without wine pairings curated by Elaia’s sommelier, Alisha Blackwell-Calvert.
Elaia’s menus reflect the seasons with a monthly change-up. June’s featured plates include delightful takes on classics. Rib of Beef with white asparagus and garlic scapes ramps to eclectic dishes, such as Hakurei turnips with whey, cherry leaves and smoked trout roe, and are counted among this month’s plates. There are also re-imagined desserts such as Brown Butter Ice Cream scooped on a bed of toasted oats, chamomile and mandarin, all crafted with a focus on locally sourced products.
“I’m really excited about the products here in Missouri.” said Martinez, emphasizing how he seeks out only the best ingredients.
When asked how those products inspire Elaia’s menu, he said, “I keep everything not too exotic, and not too ‘out there.’ The older I get, the more sure I get as a cook. I know what works.”
It’s a simple culinary approach that reflects a physiology Martinez gained working in Michelin Star restaurants, enhanced by European travels.
“The restaurants I’ve worked at in San Francisco were never pretentious. We did have our caviar courses and things of that nature, but it was never pretentious. In Europe, it’s all about the experience, not the glasses and tablecloths. It’s about the service and the food. It’s an aesthetic I love.”
Elaia’s menu offers several dining options: à la carte or as a three-, four- or five-course dinner. For the best tasting experience, opt for five courses paired with wine. Elaia, awarded Four Diamonds by AAA, and owned by Ben Poremba, a three-time James Beard Award semi-finalist, is located at 1634 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis 63110. Reservations are recommended. Visit elaiastl.com or oliostl.com.
