It’s business as usual in the City of Kimmswick, Missouri.
While Mother Nature has forced the cancellation of its popular annual Strawberry Festival due to rising river levels, the small town is definitely open for business, according to Kimmswick Mayor Phil Stang.
“The safety of our people and those who come to our city is most important,” Stang told Gazelle. “Because the festival would normally draw more than 30,000 people, it wouldn’t be feasible to have just one way in and out of town…with crowds in the summertime, we need to keep in mind emergency services should anyone require it due to heatstroke or any other medical emergency.”
Despite the setback, the mayor stresses that the levee is holding back any flood water from the town and there is no danger of flooding in Kimmswick, which is preparing for a busy summer slate of events, from car shows to sidewalk sales. It’s also gearing up for its biggest draw, the Apple Butter Festival in late October. And next year, the newly restored Delta Queen steamboat will officially make Kimmswick its home port, bringing in much-needed oomph to the city in more ways than one.
It can be a challenge to pinpoint exactly what makes Kimmswick so special. Could it be the appeal of a historic Mississippi River town? Or could it be the enticement of charming one-of-a-kind storefronts, each housed in 19th-century homes? Perhaps a certain towering slice of pie is calling your name? Maybe it’s all of the above, as we found out during our recent visit.
Founded by Theodore Kimm in 1859, Kimmswick began as a large tract of land where the Little Rock Creek empties into the Mississippi. Kimm, a native of Brunswick, Germany, was a successful dry goods merchant in St. Louis, who moved his family to Jefferson County in 1850, and purchased the land from the heirs of Captain George Washington Waters of Massachusetts, one of the area’s early settlers. Kimm named the town after himself and added “wick,” which translates to “village” in German.
From the onset, Kimm worked hard to establish the town, laying out the grid, selling vacant lots, building a few houses, and even serving as its first postmaster. Back then, the mail arrived five times a day, and there was a total of nine train stops at the station daily—even showboats regularly came to town. Hotels, saloons, and a jeweler, bootery, drugstore and other specialty stores sprung up, making Kimmswick the second-largest city in Jefferson County by 1876.
But by the dawn of the automobile age, the once-bustling town faltered, leading some residents to move and merchants to seek opportunity elsewhere, preferably near one of the new highways. The following decades were ones of neglect, and many homes and buildings were torn down.
In the 1970s, Kimmswick resident Lucianna Ross began a campaign to renovate and repair several of the old homes, launching a community-wide restoration that exists to this day.
When you visit Kimmswick, a good place to start is the Kimmswick Historical Society on Third Street. The small museum displays many of the town’s artifacts—most of them donated by descendants of early residents—from Theodore Kimm’s desk to the workbench used at the Ziegler Jewelry store, which operated from 1909 to 1973, making it the longest-running business in the town’s history. The museum also offers group tours, as well as a self-guided walking tour featuring landmark buildings and historical markers.
In the fall, Kimmswick hosts the highly anticipated Apple Butter Festival (October 26 and 27). The event began in the ’70s, as a way for the Kimmswick Historical Society to raise money. What started as a small operation, with volunteers making apple butter in their basements and garages, has turned into a two-day weekend event that draws more than 100,000 people every year! Perhaps even more popular than the event is the apple butter itself—its production, a time-honored ritual, with members of the Kimmswick Historical Society gathering on the eve of the festival to peel and prep the apples. And before dawn on each day of the festival, the copper kettle comes out, the wood-burning fire is lighted, and the kettle is filled with apples, which are cooked and stirred for a few hours until the concoction is thick enough to be sealed in jars. This coveted apple butter is available only during the festival, so the lines can be long.
It’s important to note that activity halts to a stop in Kimmswick on Mondays. Weekends are the peak days for the local businesses, all of them family owned and -operated. We’re told somewhere along the way, it was decided that Monday would be the town’s unofficial “off day.”
For more information and a complete schedule of festivals and other events, visit GoKimmswick.com.
IN AND AROUND KIMMSWICK
The Blue Owl
The Blue Owl Restaurant and Bakery has been an institution for decades, and over the years, its Famous Levee High Apple Pie has been sought-after by the likes of the Food Network, Travel Channel, TODAY Show and even Oprah Winfrey, who declared it one of her “Top 100 Favorite Things for the Holidays.” In May 1985, when Blue Owl matriarch Mary Hostetter agreed to take over an existing tea room from none other than Lucianna Ross herself and combine it with her already successful home-baking business, it was the beginning of something extraordinary. Hostetter opened for business later that summer with five employees and a goal of serving 30 diners a day.
These days, the restaurant, which now employs about 75 people, sees more than 300 customers a day during the week and even more on the weekends, and sometimes by the busload. Why do the crowds keep coming back? Sure, the fruit and cream pies and specialty cakes are worth the trip, but there’s so much more. For starters, the entrée salads, like Tossed Strawberry and Fried Chicken, are spectacular, especially with the house-made Poppyseed Dressing. When the weather calls for it, we recommend the White Chili, which is satisfyingly hearty. Then, there are the daily specials like the Quiche of the Day, Meatloaf on Tuesdays, Southern Fried Chicken on Wednesdays and so on. On Sundays, a menu highlight is Homemade Chicken and Dumplings. theblueowl.com
Cheese Shack Café
After seven years of enticing the masses from their award-winning gourmet grilled cheese food truck, the dynamic duo of Dan McKean and Tina Butler has opened the Cheese Shack Café, a brick-and-mortar version of their oh-so-popular mobile eatery. Located in the center of town on Second Street, the café has seating for about 50 people, with more on the patio when the weather’s nice. In addition to the Cheese Shack’s 16 specialty grilled cheese sandwiches, ranging from simple goodness like White Cheddar Bacon and Roast Beef to the sublime Bruschetta Melt, the café also offers a soup and salad lineup. Of course, fans of the food truck’s signature Mac & Cheese Balls and four kinds of Tater Tots will find those faves on the menu, as well. facebook.com/TheCheeseShack
Mississippi Mud Gallery & Gifts
When asked how she determines what goes into her shop, owner Betteanne Smith says, “I only sell what I like.” And chances are, you’ll probably find many things to like in this one-of-a-kind boutique. Smith has deftly curated her inventory, featuring original works from local and national artisans, most of whom she personally meets when she travels to art fairs, shows and other events across the country. In fact, she can tell you the human story behind the product lines she carries. Give yourself plenty of time to browse, as Mississippi Mud has display upon display of jewelry, from the exquisite to the imaginative, as well as original wall art, clothing and accessories, and handmade pottery, wood and glass items for the home and garden. What we love about this shop is that you’re sure to find something unique for that special someone in any price range, and we’re willing to bet that lucky person on the receiving end will like it—a lot! mississippimudgallery.com
The Spicery
Just a few steps from Mississippi Mud is The Spicery, a wonderland of coffee, tea, spices, herbs, salts and extracts, as well as all-natural jams and sauces. Sniff your way through their coffee bean and loose-leaf tea offerings to determine which flavors or blends suit you best. The Spicery’s coffee selection, crafted exclusively for the store by a coffee roaster in Kirkwood, features origin, estate and special blends, and more than 3 dozen flavored varieties. We particularly enjoyed the Kimmswick Blend, a dark, French-style roast, as well as the chocolatey Simply Sinful. And we almost lost our minds with all flavor combinations they had for loose-leaf and box tea, also blended locally. After much thought and expert guidance from the staff, we selected the heavenly Spring in Paris, a flowery, multi-layered red rooibos tea, which is refreshing iced. Other featured items include dip and soup mixes, barbeque sauces, and fruit butters and jam. TheSpiceryofKimmswick.com
