There’s a song called “Everything Old is New Again” from the 1979 film, “All That Jazz.” It’s a fitting nod to Kansas City, the town that cultivated a new style of jazz in the 1920s and ‘30s and launched the career of legendary saxophonist Charlie Parker. Born and raised in Kansas City, “Bird,” as Parker was known, got his start playing at local jazz clubs.
Indeed, as our recent visit revealed, everything old is new again in Kansas City, with storied destinations rich with history and charged with rebirth, much like the city itself.
For starters, streetcars are back after 60 years. Streetcars served as the main mode of transportation for Kansas Citians at the turn of the 20th century and remained operational until the mid-1950s.
The latest iteration of the KC Streetcar, fare-free and running since 2016, is the easiest, most convenient way to travel in and around downtown. Two miles of track connect Crown Center and Union Station to the south all the way north to historic City Market and the River Market neighborhood, with cars arriving every 10 to 15 minutes at each of the 16 platform stops. Yes, there is such a thing as a free ride in Kansas City!
Take the streetcar to the city’s 110-year-old crown jewel, Union Station, which becomes an even hotter destination this summer with the arrival of “Disney 100: The Exhibition.” Kansas City is among the first to host the groundbreaking, once-in-a-lifetime exhibit, honoring both the city’s and Union Station’s connection to Walt Disney, whose family moved to the area when he was 9 years old.
The future “Father of Animation” attended drawing classes at the Kansas City Art Institute, and later worked at a number of ad agencies around town. In 1922, he officially launched the Laugh-O-Gram Studio, living and working out of a building on East 31st Street in Midtown. Local legend has it that Disney found his first inspiration for Mickey Mouse during his late nights working at the studio, when a mouse would visit for scraps of food.
As an up-and-coming entrepreneur, Disney frequented Union Station. We’re told he even used to take his showers at the train station. When he decided to head West, Disney purchased a first-class ticket from Union Station to Hollywood and, as we all know, would go on to cement his extraordinary legacy.
Speaking of Hollywood, there’s a strong connection between the movies and downtown Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District. In the 1930s, according to the Crossroads Community Association, when movie industry executives needed more centralized distribution points to ship their films across the country, they chose Kansas City as one of their largest hubs, giving birth to Film Row. Located within a four-square-block area, Film Row’s marquee tenants included MGM, 20th Century Fox, Warner Brothers, Paramount Pictures and United Artists.
These days, the Crossroads is home to a thriving arts scene, with its historic buildings and once-neglected warehouses transformed into an eclectic mix of eateries, breweries and boutiques.
STAY
LOEWS KANSAS CITY HOTEL
It is in the Crossroads where you’ll find Loews Kansas City Hotel, a gem of a property when it comes to location, location, location: The hotel is just steps away from a streetcar stop, neighborhood restaurants and coffee shops, the Power & Light District and more.
But wait, there is more: In keeping with the overall vibe of its locale, the property – inside and out – was meticulously planned to complement everything around it. For instance, the building’s distinctive curved metal and glass exterior is designed to reflect another architectural tour de force, the Kauffman Center next door. Meanwhile, the finished concrete on the other side of the building blends in with the surrounding skyscrapers. Within, interior design touches and commissioned artwork pay homage to the city’s past and present.
Our corner suite featured floor-to-ceiling windows that afforded us an impressive bird’s eye view of the downtown skyline. The inviting space, which included separate sleeping quarters and a living room, came with highly desirable appointments like cushy, modern furnishings and curated art, as well as luxurious bath products and other amenities.
SAVOR
THE STILWELL
Loews’ elegant on-site restaurant, The Stilwell, comes with a jaw-dropping bar, an open kitchen and a wraparound balcony overlooking the cityscape. The name, a nod to Kansas City’s railroad history, references rail tycoon Arthur E. Stilwell, inventor of the Stilwell oyster car that delivered oysters to the City Market in the late 1800s.
The Stilwell’s take on reinvented American cuisine emphasizes seasonal ingredients from local farms. As you peruse the menu, enjoy a cocktail – or two. Choices from Bar Stilwell include its seasonal, “free spirited” cocktail offerings that have little or no booze, such as the fruity Ruby Berry Spritz (curaçao, berry syrup, grapefruit, lime and soda) and the refreshing Cucumber Crush mocktail.
Featured entrées include Alaskan Halibut with cherry miso, pickled cherries, parsnip puree, purple rice and quinoa; Cold Smoked Pork Chop with grilled peach chutney, citrus glaze and fresh farmer sweet potato hash; and Red Rice Risotto with carrot ginger puree, mushrooms, gala apple, pickled fennel, pecans and garlic crème fraiche. Room for dessert? Try the Blooming Citrus, a blood-orange curd tart, or the Grasshopper Mousse Cake, a black cocoa power chocolate cake with crème de menthe mousse.
HORSEFEATHER SOCIAL
Horsefeather Social on Loews’ seventh-floor terrace is a popular pre- and post-dinner destination for drinks, bar bites and live music on select evenings. It’s also a prime spot for enjoying sunset views of the landmark Kauffman Center. The name comes from the Horsefeather, a Prohibition-era cocktail similar to a Moscow Mule that remains a Kansas City staple to this day.
FOX AND PEARL
Fox and Pearl, in the city’s Westside neighborhood, is housed in a century-old building built as a Swedish lodge hall and later served as a drugstore. Throughout the space, there are reminders of its past – the 16-foot ceilings, blue and white mosaic tiles, and the narrow spiral staircase that leads to the cellar with its speakeasy-style bar and charcuterie kitchen. There are personal touches, as well, such as the vintage sound system that plays chef Vaughn Good’s vinyl record collection through the dinner service.
Good, a James Beard Foundation semi-finalist, combines his French Culinary Institute training with his Southern and Midwestern roots to create seasonal menus that showcase his skills with a live fire hearth, a smoker and a variety of preservation techniques.
Our meal consisted of Potted Cheese and Roasted Bone Marrow, served with local Ibis Bakery bread; followed by the flavor-forward Beef Bolognese and Smoked Pork Chop with bourbon glaze. The beet brownies for dessert were a revelation!
TAILLEUR
Dine at Tailleur in Midtown and you’ll not only revel in European café-inspired food, you’ll also be surrounded by antiques, equestrian pieces (a nod to owner Heather White’s background in showjumping) and other eye-catching design to keep things interesting.
The menu – from brunch to dinner – tempts with an array of house-made bread and salads such as the Grilled Caesar and Salmon Niçoise that are almost too pretty to eat. The mains include classic Coq au Vin, as well as Grilled Duck Breast, Steak & Frites and Rack of Lamb. Featured desserts – cakes, pies, cookies, tarts – come from White’s Enchanté bakery across the street. Peruse the wine list, as it features bottles from boutique wineries across the country and around the world.
BILLIE’S GROCERY
We experienced one of our more unique finds in Kansas City at Billie’s Grocery. Don’t let the name fool you: It’s not a grocery store; rather, it’s a café and bakery that caters to every lifestyle and diet. But don’t let those descriptors fool you, either.
As you walk inside Billie’s bright, open dining area, you’ll first notice the massive glass case of goodies, offering a seemingly endless array of gluten-free sweet treats such as Snickers and Twix bars, cupcakes, meringues, brownies, tarts and delightful Sugar Daddy Jars (made with lemon curd, pudding and cookies) with flavors that rotate daily. As if the bakery selections weren’t dizzying enough, there’s plenty to choose from for breakfast, brunch or lunch. We sampled the Poke Nachos with sashimi-grade tuna, pickled ginger and cucumbers, seaweed salad and all the accoutrements; Miso Wild Caught Salmon Burger served with organic wild greens on brioche; and Grilled Chicken and Lemon Gremolata sandwich – all satisfyingly delicious!
COUNTY ROAD ICE HOUSE
Located in the middle of the action in the Power & Light District, County Road Ice House is the destination for sampling one of Kansas City’s most popular barbecue establishments: award-winning Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que.
Think Texas Torpedos with smoked pork, Smoked Brisket Nachos and Burnt End Taquitos – and that’s just for nibbles. The rest of the menu features tried-and-true favorites such as the Z-Man Burger, Hog Heaven and Smokey Joe sandwiches, and barbecue platter combinations for those who want it all. Pair it with an ice-cold beer or a frozen cocktail – “ice house” is in the name, after all – and you’ve got a winning combination!
SIP
J. RIEGER & CO.
The time-honored distillery’s story begins in the city’s West Bottoms district, where you’ll find infamous 9th Street and State Line Road, an area that gave rise to bootleggers and speakeasies during Prohibition and earned a reputation for being “The Wettest Block in the World.”
Established in 1887, J. Rieger grew to become the largest mail-order whiskey purveyor in the world, offering more than 100 alcohol products to a quarter of a million customers. But just like the breweries, saloons, liquor stores and other businesses around it, J. Rieger fell victim to Prohibition. It wasn’t until 125 years later that a team made up of hospitality and industry experts – including Jacob Rieger’s great-great-great grandson, Andy – resurrected the brand, becoming Kansas City’s first distillery to open since Prohibition.
J. Rieger is now headquartered in the East Bottoms in the former Heim Brewery bottling plant, a massive three-story property built in 1901. The building houses the distillery, four restaurants and cocktail bars (including the underground speakeasy-style Hey! Hey! Club), an indoor-outdoor atrium and a two-story slide touted as “the coolest way to exit a bar.” Take in a guided tour with a tasting that features the award-winning Kansas City Whiskey, a signature whiskey style that honors the brand’s history.
MESSENGER COFFEE CO.
What could be better than farm-direct coffee freshly roasted within a three-level café in the heart of downtown Kansas City? Throw in a homegrown bakery on the premises and you’ve got caffeine-and-carb heaven on earth!
Messenger’s flagship location, inside a historic red brick building on Grand Boulevard, is abuzz all day long, from the lower-level hub to the more serene second level to the rooftop garden perched atop the Crossroads district.
While we realize that some like it hot and opt for a café au lait or cortado even in the middle of summer, the Cold Brew menu caught our eye, with seasonal offerings such as Orange Vanilla and a non-alcoholic take on the classic Mai Tai.
It was a bonus to discover local favorite Ibis Bakery sharing the space with Messenger. Known for its handcrafted bread, including the mouthwatering Cheese Slipper, Ibis also boasts a selection of croissants, and signature and seasonal pastries.
THOU MAYEST COFFEE ROASTERS
If you prefer a more laid-back weekend vibe as you sip your morning coffee, small-batch roaster Thou Mayest, located at City Market, is a good place to people-watch, especially before the market crowd descends on the neighborhood.
Thou Mayest offers an array of customizable espresso-based drinks and tea, and a small selection of from-scratch pastries. Lots and lots of plants and cozy seating areas contribute to the welcoming atmosphere.
SEE
UNION STATION
Union Station embodies Kansas City’s living history within an architectural masterpiece. Built in 1914, the station shuttled hundreds of thousands of passengers a year in its heyday. But the following decades saw the building fall into disrepair; in fact, it was almost demolished on several occasions. In the mid-1990s, taxpayers passed a historic initiative to repair and renovate the property, which reopened in grand style in 1999.
Today, in addition to being a working train station, Union Station is a hub for all sorts of attractions such as world-touring exhibitions, the kid-tastic Science City, a planetarium, a movie theater and a model train gallery, as well as shops and restaurants, including the fine-dining stunner, Pierpont’s, with interiors that harken back to 1920s high life.
The biggest draw to Union Station this summer is “Disney 100: The Exhibition,” showcasing 250 objects, costumes, props and other Walt Disney Company memorabilia displayed among 14 interactive installations in 10 immersive galleries. The exhibit runs through Nov. 30.
NATIONAL WWI MUSEUM AND MEMORIAL
The National WWI Museum and Memorial is a true Kansas City landmark. The Liberty Memorial, a 217-foot Egyptian Revival that towers over the site, has been standing tall for almost a century. At its 1921 dedication, more than 100,000 people witnessed the five Supreme Allied commanders gather together for the first time in history. President Calvin Coolidge presided over the ceremony when the monument was completed in 1926.
Getting to the tower’s open-air observation deck requires an elevator ride and an additional 45 steps. You’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of Union Station and downtown.
The state-of-the-art museum, designated by Congress as the nation’s first official World War I museum, opened in 2006. To date, it holds the world’s most comprehensive collection of objects and documents related to the Great War, which claimed 9 million soldiers and 10 million more civilians.
The museum’s latest addition, “Into the Trenches,” is a life-sized, immersive recreation of trench warfare along roughly 475 miles of the Western Front. The details depicting trench life – from the mud to the barbed wire to the trash dumps – are sobering and at times, horrifying and gruesome.
Other recent upgrades to the main gallery include interactive maps and touch tables and an exhibit that tells the story of how America mobilized for the war. The museum’s lower level boasts an “open storage center,” an impressive “coastline” of glass display cases showing objects and artifacts such as headgear, clothing and accessories that were previously unavailable for public viewing.
KANSAS CITY ZOO & AQUARIUM
If you haven’t been to the Kansas City Zoo lately – or haven’t been at all – it’s a great time to visit, with the addition of the Sobela Ocean Aquarium.
Opened in September 2023 following a decade of planning and construction, the 650,000-gallon aquarium is home to 8,000 animals in 34 habitats. There are sharks, eels, sea otters, a giant Pacific octopus, a rare orange lobster and the aquarium’s resident mascot, Tortellini, a green sea turtle who was rescued off the coast of Florida. Tortellini is believed to have been struck by a boat, with her injuries causing a scar on her shell and impairing her ability to use her hind flippers – an irregularity that creates buoyancy issues, which is why Tortellini sometimes swims vertically. Seeing this darling creature is worth the price of admission – which, by the way, is included with the purchase of a regular zoo ticket.
KC WHEEL
One of Kansas City’s newest attractions, the KC Wheel, is a 150-foot diversion that offers some of the best views of the cityscape. Each air-conditioned private gondola seats up to six people and delivers 360-degree vistas of downtown. Located in Penway Point, a former industrial complex, the area also features a 16-hole mini-golf course, with future plans calling for a number of food-and-drink venues, a rooftop beach bar, volleyball courts, yard games and a winter ice-skating rink.
GREEN LADY LOUNGE
Want to “disappear” for a while? All our cares seemed to subside when we stepped inside the iconic Green Lady Lounge, a retro jazz club in the Crossroads district that transported us decades – think all the way back to the 1940s. The chandeliers and vintage oil paintings combine with dim lighting, red walls and red-leather banquettes to exude a certain mood, perfect for ensconcing oneself within a musical cocoon of Kansas City jazz.
With a lineup that features some of the most talented jazz musicians in Kansas City and beyond, the music is the star here. On the weekends, swing back and forth between the main-level stage to the stone basement “hideaway” called the Orion Room and never miss a beat. Who knows? You may be listening to the next Charlie Parker!
As if all of the above wasn’t enough, Kansas City has a wealth of other destinations and attractions, including an established arts and culture scene, Royals baseball and Chiefs football, city parks (we love Loose Park!) and distinct neighborhoods laden with their own flavor and charm.
It’s a good thing getting your KC fix is literally a quick road trip west along I-70. To maximize your experience and plan the ultimate trip, Visit KC is a good place to start.
