The allure of Memphis as a burgeoning modern metropolis goes beyond the music, but it’s easy to see why you can’t be “Walking in Memphis” without hearing the wail of the blues, the funkified beat of soul, and the hip-swiveling licks of the rock n’ roll guitar at every turn.
The legend of Elvis Presley is so intertwined with the story of Memphis that it’s impossible to imagine the city without The King. But during our recent trip, a bigger, truer picture of this musical mecca on the Mississippi emerged that had us constantly asking, “Could Elvis have been Elvis without Memphis?”
Consider this: While Memphis prides itself as the “birthplace of rock ‘n’ roll,” the city was already a bustling musical crossroads long before the Presleys (from nearby Tupelo, Mississippi) came to town.
With Beale Street at its core, the city has fostered and nurtured a euphony of musical giants, from “Father of the Blues” W.C. Handy, who came to Memphis in 1909, to B.B. King, who was born Riley B. King but became known as “Beale Street Blues Boy”—B.B., for short—in the early ‘50s. The legendary Sam Phillips, before his ascent as “kingmaker” to the pantheon of music mythology, worked as a sound engineer for the big bands that played at the storied Peabody Hotel. The landmark hotel, renowned for its twice-daily Duck March, has a few intriguing musical footnotes of its own: It was there where Elvis signed his first contract with Col. Tom Parker, his lifelong manager. And we have it on good authority—from duckmaster Doug Weatherford, who is also the Peabody’s official historian—that the hotel was the site of many a misbehavin’ by Jerry Lee Lewis, as well. Goodness gracious, indeed! Just a short drive away on Union Avenue is Sun Studio, where the tide of music experienced a series of “firsts,” including the recording of “Rocket 88,” considered the first rock ‘n’ roll song in the genre’s history. In 1953, Elvis first walked through the doors of Sun as an 18-year-old unknown, wanting to record some music in hopes of being discovered. In the same decade across town, another musical genre was percolating to fever pitch in the former Capitol Theatre on McLemore Avenue: Stax Records established a niche by attracting raw, groundbreaking talent with plenty of soul—among them, Otis Redding, Carla Thomas and Wilson Pickett.
Certainly, the allure of Memphis as a burgeoning modern metropolis goes beyond the music, but it’s easy to see why you can’t be “Walking in Memphis” without hearing the wail of the blues, the funkified beat of soul, and the hip-swiveling licks of the rock n’ roll guitar at every turn.
STAY:
HU. HOTEL
The Hu., named after Memphis railroad tycoon, public servant and philanthropist Hugh Lawson White Brinkley, is definitely in the running for Memphis’ most playful hotel. Where else can you get into a lively debate with the staff about which DeBarge was the better singer (El or Chico?)—and this was just during our first day. You’ll also immediately notice there’s no reception desk; instead, the “barista” behind the coffee bar checks you in. Built in 1905 as the Tennessee Trust Bank building, its latest incarnation is a 110-boutique hotel that oozes a casual-cool, yet upscale vibe.
Our King Junior Suite was welcoming and roomy, and offered much-needed amenities such as a perfectly comfortable bed, plush robes and plenty of outlets for charging our various mobile devices.
Next door to the hotel is the Hu. Diner, a fairly new eatery that’s already getting plenty of attention from locals and out-of-towners alike. The cocktails are inventive—we started with the Pulp Fiction (Memphis’ own Old Dominick Vodka, orange, cream and soda) and the Chuck Berry (Combier Orange, Cocchi Americano, sparkling wine and bitters). Try the signature Parker House Rolls—fluffy, heavenly bites with honey butter and cardamom—and the unbelievably delectable Octopus & Grits. For the main event, we decided to make it a truly Southern meal: House Fried Chicken with Brussels sprouts slaw and biscuits, Chicken Livers served with baked apples in apple cider sweet and sour sauce, and Pan Roasted Catfish with hoppin’ john, chow chow and preserved greens. The diner is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner—a major plus for hotel guests—and it also has a walk-up window, if you’d like your meal on the go.
But perhaps the hotel’s coolest feature is the Hu.Roof, a rooftop spot that can stake its claim as one of the best places to take in a Mississippi River sunset (or sunrise), the city skyline or the nightly Mighty Lights show. From sundown to 10 p.m., the Hernando de Soto and Big River Crossing bridges over the Mississippi put on a razzle-and-dazzle display of tens of thousands of state-of-the-art LED lights, with shows beginning every hour on the hour. Snacks and drinks are served indoors and outdoors, with a portable menu of Snacks, Spreads and Flatbreads, and one of our new favorite cocktails, the Hotel Nacional—Pampero Venezuelan Rum, Bacardi, apricot, pineapple and bitters. huhotelmemphis.com
SAVOR:
ARCADE RESTAURANT
Arcade has been a part of the Memphis downtown scene since 1919—even Elvis was a regular way back when! It’s also a familiar landmark for movie fans: Scenes from “Great Balls of Fire,” “The Firm,” “Walk the Line” and more have been filmed at the diner. Maybe it’s because once you step inside, it evokes a certain aura, including a menu brimming with down-home comfort food and a friendly wait staff. Some standouts: the Eggs Redneck with biscuits and sausage in honest-to-goodness gravy, a classic Catfish Sandwich and, of course, the Peanut Butter ‘N’ Banana Sandwich—made just like you-know-who’s favorite back in the day. arcaderestaurant.com
CATHERINE AND MARY’S
Named after the grandmothers of chef-owners Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman, this downtown eatery is all about combining robust, regional Italian flavors with a few Southern touches thrown in. The small plates shine here, and the modern-industrial yet welcoming setting is just right for dining with a small group of friends. For starters, we opted for the Salumi Board and Cheese Plate, perfect for getting settled in with a glass of wine or a cocktail. For our second course, the bright and refreshing Asparagus with artichoke, crème fraiche, white cheddar, horseradish and brown butter; the Shrimp with shishitos, chili, lime and tomatoes on ciabatta; and the Sunday Meatballs truly hit the spot. Standouts from the house-made pasta selection include the Tonarelli with pancetta, kale, chili, basil and panna gratta; the meaty Tortellini with ricotta salata; and the flavor-packed Spaghetti with clams and squid. The Lamb, with celery root, morels, peas, sage and spring onion, made for a flavorful entrée end note. It’s important that you save room for dessert—otherwise, you’ll miss the decadent Torta Del Nona (chocolate, hazelnut, benne seed brittle, pomegranate and cream) and the citrusy, raw-milk Panna Cotta with a sprinkling a satsuma granita, brown butter oats and honey. catherineandmarys.com
CENTRAL BBQ
If you’re only visiting, it’s impossible to visit the more than 100 barbecue joints claiming to be Memphis’ best, but we went to a very reliable local source, who steered us to Central BBQ. Its founders met on the barbecue competition circuit in the 1980s and have since won numerous top local and regional awards, as well as national recognition. Central prides itself on slow-smoked, Memphis-style barbecue with a slogan that proclaims, “Smoke is our sauce.” And you can taste the combination of smoked hickory and pecan wood, the signature dry rub of spices and the 24-hour marinade in the tender meats: ribs, pulled pork, beef brisket, chicken—you name it. Looking for “lighter” fare? Try the BBQ Chef salad. Ours came loaded with pulled pork…delicious, but definitely a salad on the heftier side—you’ve been warned. cbqmemphis.com
3RD & COURT DINER
This contemporary eatery downtown serves up classic diner fare, and it’s perfect for a quick breakfast or lunch rendezvous. Go early for breakfast and just take in the scene with a cup of coffee and an Egg-in-a-Hole, eggs cooked inside house brioche bread, or Chicken Hash, complete with potatoes and sunny-side-up eggs. There are daily Blue Plate specials for lunch, as well as a satisfying Beastloaf Melt sandwich and a yummy-in-your-tummy Pork Belly Reuben. 3rdncourt.com
LOFLIN YARD
It’s hard to describe what Loflin Yard is all about, but trust us when we say it’s something that elevates a typical night out or weekend brunch in downtown Memphis. And they’re not kidding about the “yard”—there’s a front yard and a back yard, both inviting spaces to sit back and sip on a Tennessee Whiskey Old Fashioned and nosh on a Charred Romaine Salad, house-smoked Brisket Tacos, or pickle-brined Chicken Tenders. If you prefer to dine indoors, there’s a Coach House with a porch—and sometimes, live music to enjoy, whether you’re dining in or out. If you want a more Zen-like experience, sit in the covered patio, which is adjacent to “Loflin Falls,” a water feature designed to make time stop, if only during cocktail hour. The atmosphere is ultra-casual—even Memphis’ coolest canines know it’s the place to be! loflinyard.com
SEE:
NATIONAL CIVIL RIGHTS MUSEUM
The history of Memphis will always be linked with April 4, 1968, the day Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. was felled by an assassin’s bullet while standing on the balcony of the Lorraine Motel. Now the site of the National Civil Rights Museum, the destination is a must for every American to better understand the story behind the movement. Spanning four centuries, from slavery in the 1600s to Dr. King’s final hours in 1968, the museum focuses on key (and poignant) moments in the struggle for freedom and equality: life under Jim Crow, the Montgomery Bus Boycott, student lunch-counter sit-ins and the Freedom Rides. Exhibits in the main building culminate with a viewing of Room 306, where Dr. King was staying, arranged just as it was on that fateful day. Across the street is the Legacy building, converted from the former boarding house where James Earl Ray stayed on the day of the assassination. It currently presents an exhibit dedicated to the ensuing investigation, including a glimpse of the bathroom window where it’s believed Ray fired the fatal shot, as well as details on the international manhunt that ended in his arrest. civilrightsmuseum.org
STAX MUSEUM OF AMERICAN SOUL MUSIC
This just may be the grooviest and funkiest time capsule in all of Memphis! Located on the site where the landmark Stax recording studio once cut records for the likes of Otis Redding, Booker T. & the MGs, Isaac Hayes, the Staple Singers and more, the museum is a celebration of the authentic and pure sound that is soul music. The genre can be traced back to Southern gospel and rhythm & blues—in fact, the exhibit opens within a real Mississippi Delta church (circa 1906), which was meticulously reassembled as part of the exhibit. Other highlights of the more than 2,500 items on display include: a dance floor where visitors can bust a move alongside Soul Train dancers; Isaac Hayes’ custom 24-karat gold-plated Cadillac Eldorado, equipped with a mini-bar and TV, and lined with white fur carpeting; and the hallowed space that is Studio A, complete with the slightly slanted floor that’s believed to have acoustically contributed to the distinct “Stax sound.” staxmuseum.com
GRACELAND
When they say today’s Graceland is “all new & king-sized,” they’re not kidding. Graceland has changed—a lot—in recent years, so if you haven’t been in a while, you just might be “All Shook Up” to see that the campus now has a hotel (The Guest House at Graceland); a new and updated entertainment complex (Elvis Presley’s Memphis) showcasing music and movie memorabilia, The King’s fleet of automobiles and airplanes, shops, two themed restaurants (Vernon’s Smokehouse and Gladys’ Diner) and more; and an 80,000-square-foot exhibition center for special, limited-time exhibits.
The original mansion, which was part of the 13-acre property purchased by a 22-year-old Elvis in 1957, is the second-most visited house in the country after the White House, receiving as many as 750,000 visitors a year. graceland.com
ROCKABILLY RIDES
Think you know all there is to know about Memphis? One Rockabilly Ride through town might change that. This unique tour company is owned by two Memphis musicians, who not only know a lot about Memphis’ past and present music scene, but also have insight on a few off-the-beaten-path markers that have played a role in shaping the city. For our tour, Rockabilly co-owner Brad Birkedahl arrived at the hotel dressed to impress in a Lansky Bros. shirt (Lansky Bros. was Elvis Presley’s clothier) and blue suede shoes. But what really made our jaw drop was his ride: a shiny, vintage 1955 Plymouth Belvedere, ready to whisk us away for a 90-minute adventure. Our first stop: Church Park, named after Robert Church, the South’s first black millionaire. Church purchased the 6-acre plot on Beale Street in 1899, at a time when blacks were not allowed to perform in any of the city’s public venues, and it became a stomping ground for musicians—W.C. Handy, among them—who played outdoors in the park for tips. Another stop was Lauderdale Courts, one of the first housing projects under FDR’s The New Deal. But what makes it a landmark is 185 Winchester, Apt. 328, the former home of Vernon and Gladys Presley and their son, Elvis. The family lived there from 1949 to 1953—truly formative years for the young Elvis, who sang and played guitar for the neighbors, and practiced in the building’s basement. rockabillyrides.com
DIXON GALLERY & GARDENS
Can’t decide whether you’d rather spend an afternoon at a gallery or strolling through a garden? At The Dixon, you can do both! Its 17-acre grounds feel like a world away from the city’s hustle and bustle. As you enter, serene gardenscapes escort you up the walkway to the main building, where Rodin’s majestic “The Three Shades” stands, giving visitors an inkling of what’s inside: impressionist and post-impressionist art from Degas, Cassatt, Renoir, Cézanne, Matisse, Seurat and more; 18th- and 19th-century European decorative art; and graphic art from the 1800s and 1900s. Viewing the art feels more intimate within the spaces of The Dixon, where you can sit on the living room couch and compare Monet’s brushstrokes to Pissarro’s.
Outside, lush, fragrant landscapes are divvied up into formal spaces, woodland and cutting gardens, with a number of shady spots and seating areas for respite. dixon.org
For ideas on how to create your own magic in Memphis, visit memphistravel.com.
