They like to keep things interesting in Indy. Whether you’re up for a mid-week, spur-of-the-moment getaway, or an extended three-day weekend with the family, there’s plenty to take in, all just minutes away from the center of town.
If it’s been a while since you’ve been to Indianapolis, it will feel like new – that much was true upon arriving in the reimagined Bottleworks District. Located in the northeastern part of downtown, Bottleworks is adjacent to the Indianapolis Cultural Trail, an 8-mile loop for walking and biking that connects the city’s cultural districts, seven designated historically significant neighborhoods, each with its own unique identity.
The Bottleworks District, a $300-million mixed-use dining, shopping, and office and residential hub, is the largest private development of its kind in Indiana. Nestled along Massachusetts Avenue – Mass Ave, if you’re in the know – Bottleworks has an eclectic mix of restaurants and boutiques, a movie theater and even a bowling alley lining its pedestrian-friendly sidewalks.
Steeped in history, the crown jewel of the 12-acre parcel of land is the landmark art deco Coca-Cola Bottling Plant. Opened in 1931, the lavishly detailed white terra cotta building expanded over the years; by the 1950s, it was the largest Coca-Cola bottling plant in the world, producing more than 2 million bottles of Coke a week.
When the Coca-Cola franchise changed hands in the 1960s, the bottling plant moved away from downtown and the building was sold to Indianapolis Public Schools, which used the area to house its central prep kitchen, bus service center and woodworking studio. In 2017, the land, now owned by Hendricks Commercial Properties, began its transformation, turning the former factory into the city’s swankiest hotel and creating a destination for entertainment, history and art that seamlessly blends the past with the present at every turn.
STAY:
BOTTLEWORKS HOTEL
Believe us when we say – without pun – the Bottleworks Hotel is among the most refreshing properties we’ve visited in some time.
To begin with, the hotel is ensconced in art deco gloriousness, with most of the building’s original features intact, from the original façade to the terrazzo floors and a mesmerizing grand staircase. The lobby is jaw-dropping, with a stately ceiling, a wall of floor-to-ceiling windows, gold fixtures and sparkly, intricate tile work.
And we must declare the hallways – usually an afterthought at even the most luxurious hotels – a highlight, with inviting, wide corridors bedecked with larger-than-life black-and-white photographs, seating areas and unexpected “hidden” pockets showcasing vintage cameras, a photo booth and other period curiosities. But perhaps the most striking detail about the hallways is this: They are punctuated with gleaming “Coca-Cola red” doors, each one leading onto spacious, well-appointed guest rooms.
Our Timeless King room, located in the building’s original wing, was once an office for one of the plant’s executives. It has the restored terrazzo tiles, complementing the room’s bold colors, plush velvet furnishings and symmetrical design. With the room’s thoughtful floor plan, the marble bath is tucked away and partitioned from the main living space.
When you venture about the rest of the building, you’ll also find a coffee shop, restaurants, a nail bar, a spa, a yoga studio and more.
SAVOR:
THE GARAGE FOOD HALL
From our hotel room, we could spy the Garage Food Hall across the street, holding court on Carrolton Avenue. Not only does it have a plethora of food options from Indy’s top culinary entrepreneurs, but it truly is a gathering place for the community. At lunch, the scene is bustling, with neighborhood regulars, office workers and first-time diners. The dinnertime crowd is a bit more laidback, but business continues to be brisk, regardless.
The array of options includes lobster rolls, Brazilian steak sandwiches, gyros and falafel, ramen, British fish and chips, tacos, burgers and ice cream, plus a wine bar, artisan cocktails and a handful of retail pop-ups.
LOVE HANDLE
If you love award-winning comfort food, dig the ‘80s and are totally into trailer-park “art,” Love Handle is a must. It literally takes a minute – okay, two, if there’s traffic – to cross the street from the hotel and walk inside this hipster-ish, dive-ish, come-as-you-are wonderland, where punk rock is the music of choice, and neon, VHS tapes, vintage signs and portraits of creepy clowns count as décor.
It may seem gimmicky, but it’s not: The kitchen, a James Beard Award nominee, is serious about its menu offerings of breakfast and brunch items (available all day), sandwiches and more. The menu changes daily and food is served until the kitchen runs out.
The Biscuit Sliders and Chicken Schnitzel + Waffle were among the exceptional offerings during our visit. But don’t let our own selections hinder you: As we’ve come to find out, that waffle can also be topped with pork belly, brisket, lox, fried trout, etc., depending on the day.
LIVERY
We can’t say enough about this neighborhood eatery, just a few minutes’ walk along the Cultural Trail from the Bottleworks District. Housed in a restored two-story 1890s building formerly used as horse stables, Livery’s space is a beauty inside and out, successfully intermingling modern elements with its past. And that’s not even the best part …
The restaurant’s Latin-inspired cuisine offers one of the best dining experiences in the city, from Empanadas (mushroom, steak, lamb, queso, oh my!) to Pork Belly, Shrimp and Chicken Tinga tacos, to small plates and entrées.
Standouts from our meal included a sampling of the empanadas; the Sweet Plantains with black bean puree and pineapple slaw, and the Ceviche with shrimp from the Primeros section; and from the Segundos, the Paella with shrimp, scallop and chorizo fried rice, and the Red Drum with plantains, yucca fries, chorizo chutney and chimichurri.
BOVACONTI COFFEE
From downtown Indianapolis, a leisurely walk or a quick bike ride for 1 1/2 miles along the Cultural Trail will take you to the Fountain Square neighborhood, considered the first commercial historic district in the state. Here, you’ll find Bovaconti Coffee, a locally owned shop that serves coffee exclusively from Indiana roasters.
Occupying space in the former Bovaconti Jewelers building, the current owners have meticulously restored many of its original 1850s features, such as the tin ceiling and exposed brick walls. The welcoming vibe channels an authentic Italian espresso bar. There’s even a bocce ball court outside.
Then, there’s the coffee: Our Morrochino, with espresso and cocoa, was rich, layered and satisfying; the Cold Brew was as smooth as can be – perfetto!
MILKTOOTH
Adjacent to Fountain Square is the Fletcher Place neighborhood, another historic district and apparently the place to be if you’re looking for one of Indy’s best brunches.
Milktooth is a rare find, a place that even the locals can’t seem to get enough of – and we can see why: Its owner, Jonathan Brooks, was recognized as one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs of 2015. That same year, Milktooth was named one of the best new restaurants by Bon Appetit.
The Small Plates section, while consisting of just a handful of items, is wide-ranging, from Calm Cove Oysters to Latkes to Scotch Eggs to Twice Fried Spicy Garlic Wings to Beignets. The Brunch section, in our opinion, has all the star players, including the Savory Dutch Baby Pancake with sausage, greens and drizzled with truffle oil, and the not-so-ordinary Biscuits and Gravy. The menu is locally sourced, so offerings change seasonally.
Milktooth doesn’t take reservations, so we recommend getting there a few minutes before opening. But don’t be surprised to find a long line of people already waiting – it’s just that good.
SEE:
BROAD RIPPLE NEIGHBORHOOD
If you follow the Cultural Trail by car just several miles north, you’ll find the Broad Ripple neighborhood, an idyllic hamlet that’s considered the longest established district of all seven of Indy’s cultural districts and the only one outside of the downtown area.
Broad Ripple has the most diverse concentration of eateries, coffee shops, boutiques and more, including THE CAKE BAKE SHOP, where you can live out your fairy tale fantasy in a haven of sweets, elegant chandeliers and eye-catching floral arrangements. And don’t be surprised to find youngsters and the young-at-heart milling about in princess attire and “Alice in Wonderland” garb – it’s just that kind of place. While the shop has a dine-in menu, we opted for the picture-perfect Afternoon Tea, which, when done well like it is at The Cake Bake Shop, is an experience.
Our service began with a selection of teas imported from Paris, followed by freshly baked scones with classic English clotted cream, European butter and the shop’s private-label jam. Next, an assortment of finger sandwiches is served alongside mini versions of the bakery’s signature brownies, lemon bars and cheesecake. As we said, pretty as a picture!
For dinner in the neighborhood, we picked PETITE CHOU BISTRO AND CHAMPAGNE BAR, a classic French bistro that consistently ranks among the city’s best restaurants. Here, the service and the food, as well as the details like chic pink walls and candlelit dining, go hand in hand to create the perfect ambience for a romantic meal.
As expected, the wine list is robust, but we couldn’t resist the Champagne Cocktails selection, opting for Fleur D’Orangen (prosecco, gin, orange blossom water and citrus oleo saccharum) and Petite Kir Royal (crème de framboise, quina quina and brut rosé).
Mais oui, the food: How can you go wrong with Duck Fat Pommes Frites as a starter? From there, the decadent Chicken Paillard with puréed potatoes, Parmesan and arugula in a creamy lemony sauce and the hearty Côte de Porc atop mustard pan sauce had us saying “ooh la la!” all the way home.
WHITE RIVER STATE PARK
A gem in the middle of downtown is White River State Park, a 67-acre oasis of green space, trails, and cultural and recreational attractions along the White River. The park boasts the Indianapolis Zoo, an amphitheater, IMAX theater, the NCAA Hall of Champions and the remarkable EITELJORG MUSEUM, whose collection of American Indian and Western art is one of the best in the world.
There’s a magnificent vista of the Grand Canyon in the museum’s main gallery, an oil-on-canvas triptych by Wilson Hurley that takes your breath away. Throughout, rare objects and other historical items from Indiana’s indigenous tribes, as well as interactive displays that allow visitors to hear native speakers from the Delaware, Miami and Potawatomi Indians, share space with traditional and contemporary works by American artists like Frederic Remington, Georgia O’Keefe and Andy Warhol.
A major traveling exhibition, “Changing Views: The Photographs of Dorothea Lange,” comes to the Eiteljorg March 4 through Aug. 6, 2023, featuring 30 of the iconic photographer’s most memorable images during the 1930s.
NEWFIELDS
Part-museum, part-botanical garden, Newfields is an Indy destination unlike any other. The Newfields campus comprises of 152 acres, with institutions such as the Indianapolis Museum of Art, the Gardens at Newfields and more.
Known for its elaborate holiday light displays, Newfields is a popular choice for a family friendly outing. In early fall, Harvest Nights is a delight, with hundreds of hand-carved jack-o-lanterns on display, a terrifying ghost train that makes the earth rumble, and a ghost story come to life at Mischief Manor. Currently, Winterlights has Newfields aglow through Jan. 8, with more than a million and a half twinkling lights that’s sure to make your season merry and bright. Advance tickets are strongly recommended.
Can’t wait to experience Indianapolis for yourself? Visit Indy is a good place to start: Find information on the Bottleworks District, as well as recommendations for lodging, dining, attractions and more.
