Each spring, the faithful flock to Lenten fish fries, an annual ritual where cod, catfish and on occasion, shrimp, dominate the menu. All are breaded, battered and fried. That’s no surprise. After all, it is a fish fry.
Not unlike my fellow fish fry lovers, I, too, will gladly stand in line to fill my plate with the seasonal catch. However, during the COVID-19, it is hard not to get bored, considering a lot of the fish fries have been closed, along with many restaurants.
Nonetheless, whether I’m cooking my fish at home or driving through to pick up a plate to take home, I will begin to crave something beyond deep-fried, especially when my favorite culinary haunts reopen, where the seafood is savvy and sophisticated. They offer creative fish, prepared and plated, baked, boiled, poached, pan-seared or broiled; served sauced or au naturale; seafood treasures I can happily savor.
Such creative, crowd-pleasing fish plates are the specialty of Thu Rein Oo, The Crossing’s executive chef. Oo captured the Taste of St. Louis 2019 Chef Battle Royale crown for his ginger and garlic hogfish – an ugly fish with a delicious creamy white tender flesh, which Oo presented pan-seared, one of his favorite methods of preparing fish.
“I love to pan-sear or poach fish because I can use the liquid that’s produced from the cooking methods to build a more flavorful sauce,” Oo said. Pan juices have so much flavor. I never like to waste them.”
The Crossing is currently providing curbside service. Check thecrossing-stl.com for the day’s menu.
Shellfish have the reputation of being the ultimate luxuries from the sea. At Ameristar Casino Resort Spa St. Charles, scallops, mussels, lobsters and oysters fill the menu at Pearl’s Oyster Bar. With a reputation as an aphrodisiac, oysters have seduced executive chef, Joshua Schlink and his fellow chefs who offer them raw, broiled and baked.
“I’m a fan of oysters. They’re sexy. Nothing beats a fresh oyster,” said Schlink, who oversees seven restaurants, which includes Pearl’s, whose menu has a Cajun/Creole accent. “We always offer a variety of oysters from both the West Coast and the East Coast, including the Gulf. An oyster’s flavor reflects the waters from where it’s harvested.”
Schlink explained how East Coast oysters are sweeter, bigger, plumper, and tend to have a brinier flavor. West Coast oysters are smaller and have a milder flavor that’s crisp and clean. To complement their flavor, add a dash of Tabasco or mignonette sauce; a classic wine/vinegar and spice and herb reduction. Pearl’s is packed daily with a bevy of oysters, along with snow crab legs, lobster and shrimp that a bounty of shellfish seafood aficionados will recommend enjoying via the Seafood Tower.
Once the current restrictions are lifted, diners can expect to again enjoy Pearl’s Seafood Tower, along with its solid menu based on the day’s fresh catch. Kreis’ Steakhouse will follow suit, serving up its classic shrimp cocktail – the ultimate first course.
I love the classics, and topping my list is the shrimp cocktail, artfully arranged in a mid-century modern ice cup, filled with spicy tomato sauce laced with a bit of horseradish, and garnished with the obligatory parsley spring. George Tompras, owner of Kreis’ Steakhouse agrees, confirming there is nothing better than a traditional shrimp cocktail, especially when served as a first course to complement charcoal-grilled steak.
Elegant and simple, shrimp cocktails are making a comeback. A 20th-century culinary classic that’s trending along with the 19th-century New Orleans specialty, Oysters Rockefeller.
Created in 1899 at the legendary New Orleans French Quarter restaurant, Antonie’s, Oysters Rockefeller is the hallmark that defines sophisticated seafood. It’s luxuriously rich and flavorful – a decadent indulgence – so look for it on the menu and order up. Better yet, give the following recipe a try, courtesy of Pearl’s Oyster Bar.
Oysters Rockefeller
6 fresh, shucked oysters
2 tablespoons oil
2 ounces thick-cut bacon, diced
1⁄2 tablespoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons dry sherry
4 ounces fresh spinach
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1/4 cup panko bread crumbs
1⁄2 cup shredded Gruyère cheese
Chopped parsley, for garnish
2 lemon slices, for garnish
Place shucked oysters on a foil-lined baking sheet. Broil in 450 F oven until oysters plump, and edges begin to curl. While oysters are cooking, heat oil in sauté pan. Add diced bacon and sauté until bacon is close to being fully rendered. Add garlic and sherry; cook until sherry is reduced. Add spinach, salt and pepper; lightly sauté until spinach is wilted. When oysters are lightly broiled, remove from oven. Add spinach mixture on top of oyster. Sprinkle panko and shredded Gruyère on top. Bake until cheese is fully melted. Place oysters on serving plate and garnish with parsley and lemon slices. Makes one to two servings.
Though many area restaurants are closed, curbside and delivery service offerings have been changing on a daily basis. Check and see if your favorite has services to go, and when everything reopens, don’t forget to make reservations and eat up.
