The French have a word for it. Terroir, which loosely translated, means “sense of place.”
It’s the sense of place as defined by the effects of climate, soil, geography and culture on food production, especially wine. It defines the differences between wine-producing regions via appellations designated as vinicultural areas, such as Bordeaux and Rhone regions in France, and Augusta, Missouri. That’s right, Augusta. America’s first designated American Viticultural Area, which celebrated its 40th anniversary on June 20.
“Prior to 1980, all you could put on the bottle to tell people where the wine came from was the state or the county. You couldn’t be more definitive than that. But people that know wine realized the two most important things about the quality of wine are where it comes from and the vintage date. That was the impetus to get the federal government to establish American appellation origin on the label,” said Tony Kooyumjian, owner of Montelle and Augusta wineries, and a founding member of the Augusta Wine Trail.
Augusta was given the first designation. As Kooyumjian explained, there are now over 1,000 AVAs with more applications being received each year. Considering Augusta’s wine history, it’s fitting it won the honor of America’s first AVA. The Augusta area was among Missouri’s first wine regions, which dates to the mid-1800s. Augusta was also among the first to reestablish itself after prohibition. It was no surprise it was among the first AVA applications, and fierce competition was created for the coveted designation.
To decide which regions would receive AVA status, hearings were held, including the one for Augusta.
Glenn Bardgett, sommelier and two-time James Beard semi-finalist for his wine program that he developed as Annie Gunn’s wine director, was in the room where it happened.
“I was working for David Kay, president of 905 (liquor company), in those days. He was instrumental in getting the Missouri Wine Advisory Board established, and knowing my love for Missouri wines, he asked me to attend the AVA hearing in Augusta,” Bardgett said. “The hearing was in the American Legion hall. The room was full of those both in favor and those opposed to the AVA application.
“Various winery academic presentations were given in support. Speakers had maps, charts and graphs showing the uniqueness of Augusta in the world of American wines. Those in opposition weren’t anti-AVA specifically, but thought the AVA borders should be larger to include Hermann. I had to leave before the hearing was completed, so I don’t know how it ended. However, I look back to that day very nostalgically, never expecting I was attending what would become a sommelier trivia question. I do love mentioning to my many friends in Napa Valley (American AVA No. 2) that we’re No. 1.”
Being number one is a huge honor, of which Kooyumjian credits to Augusta’s uniqueness. It has “terroir.”
“We have our own unique soil that was brought down by the last continental glacier 10,000 years ago. And we have a climate that allows the Augusta area to stay a little warmer in the winter,” Kooyumjian said. “The thing that’s so neat about the Augusta AVA is it’s only 15 square miles. It really means something. Places like Napa are over 1,000 square miles of vineyard land.”
Before COVID-19, the Augusta Wine Trail was planning to toast the Augusta AVA’s 40th anniversary with a number of events throughout 2020. Those events have been mostly canceled until next year.
“We had big plans. But we’ve put our plans on hold. We’ll attempt to do the 40th anniversary next year. Our 40th plus one,” Kooyumjian said.
In spite of the challenges 2020 has presented, there are plenty of opportunities to toast the Augusta AVA anniversary year. Weekend entertainments are scheduled at the Augusta Wine Trail’s member wineries, Balducci Vineyards, Noboleis Vineyards, Augusta Winery and Montelle Winery, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary. Each winery offers food, ranging from simple snacks of cheese and charcuterie to three-course dinners. Some are releasing special libations such as Montelle’s newly released Napoleon brandy, perfect to toast Augusta’s Ruby Anniversary, not to mention Montelle’s Golden Anniversary.
Collectively, the Augusta Wine Trail produces a couple of events each year, including its famed Fall Augusta Wine Trail dinner gala, a multi-course feast paired with wines from all four wineries. While this year’s gala is still under consideration, Augusta winemakers and the Missouri Wine Board invite all to come to Augusta and discover its award-winning wines while drinking in the scenery surrounding America’s No. 1 AVA.
