From Market Square (the largest Mexican public market in the country) to the newly transformed Witte Museum and the emerging Southtown neighborhood, the city’s beginnings as an outpost of the Spanish empire 300 years ago serve as inspiration to the way San Antonians live in the present and look to the future.
Prepare for a feast of the senses in San Antonio, especially if you visit during Fiesta, a frenzied city-wide celebration of parades, floats, royalty and pageantry—a tradition that dates back to 1891.
What started as a single ceremony to honor the heroes of the Alamo and the Battle of San Jacinto has grown into an 11-day fete of more than 100 cultural, musical and culinary events that rival the likes of the Kentucky Derby and Austin’s South by Southwest.
Fiesta is considered San Antonio’s biggest “party with a purpose,” with proceeds helping to provide services to the city’s residents all year long. The unconventional festival is also known for its extravagant fashion, including flamboyant hats, coronas (flower crowns), and decorative, highly collectible pins and medals that are displayed proudly on sashes and other clothing.
Perhaps what makes the family-friendly event so successful is the unrivaled enthusiasm of San Antonians, who consider Fiesta Week (held every April) a national holiday and turn up in massive numbers to party in and around downtown, including at landmarks such as the famed River Walk, Hemisfair and Alamo Plaza.
One of the most coveted happenings during Fiesta is the “Taste of the Republic,” an al fresco ticketed event showcasing the regional flavors of Texas from more than a dozen local chefs and establishments. It’s a good introduction to Fiesta culture, and if you’re lucky, Fiesta’s reigning Reina Linda will stop by with her royal escorts. Another popular event is the San Jacinto Victory Celebration at the Alamo, an annual tradition commemorating the heroes of the battle for Texan independence. There are four major parades—all of them eye-popping and enthralling: The Texas Cavaliers River Parade, with colorful, floating barges along the River Walk; Battle of Flowers, Fiesta’s longest-running parade managed entirely by women and featuring flower-covered carriages; King William Fair Parade, a quirky procession—and neighborhood fair—in the King William Historic District, the oldest in the state of Texas; and the Fiesta Flambeau Parade, a nighttime spectacle illuminated by torches (or flambeaus) and brightly lit floats.
Outside of Fiesta, San Antonio—the seventh largest and among the fastest-growing cities in the U.S.—seems to always have some form of festive gathering any time of the year. From Market Square (the largest Mexican public market in the country), to the newly transformed Witte Museum and the emerging Southtown neighborhood, the city’s beginnings as an outpost of the Spanish empire 300 years ago serve as inspiration to the way San Antonians live in the present and look to the future.
STAY:
HOTEL VALENCIA
Even without the consistent accolades from the likes of Condé Nast Traveler (No. 1 in San Antonio, Readers’ Choice), Travel + Leisure, U.S. News & World Report and others, you’ll immediately sense that Hotel Valencia is an extra-special place the moment you step inside. The entrance foyer—equal parts serene and sophisticated—sets the tone for the ambience, with its Mediterranean fountain framed by a white arch reminiscent of Cycladic architecture in the Greek islands and a grand Spanish wrought-iron staircase with hand-drawn tile.
The property, renovated from top to bottom in 2017, exudes an old-world charm balanced with a modern-chic vibe. You’ll find exquisite details throughout the common spaces, from the open, mission-style courtyard to the library accentuated by paintings of flamenco dancers. Even Dorrego’s, the hotel’s Argentine-inspired restaurant, presents the breakfast menu in the form of a morning periódico— Try the San Antonio Migas with Mexican chorizo and queso fresco, and the Spanish Benedict with serrano ham.
Our retreat, with a balcony that overlooks the courtyard, featured ebony wood and leather furnishings, the hotel’s custom-made bed with Egyptian cotton linens, plush robes and an Italian marble bath.
The property, located along a tranquil stretch of the River Walk, is a quick stroll away from the center of town, including Alamo Plaza and La Villita. Plus, the downtown trolley stops in front of the hotel and river-barge boarding is within a five-minute walk.
hotelvalencia-riverwalk.com
SAVOR:
THE GUENTHER HOUSE
The turn of the century comes alive in this art nouveau-styled residence that was once home to the founders of Pioneer Flour Mills. Part-restaurant, part-museum, The Guenther House is known for its breakfast and lunch offerings, with breads, pastries, pancakes and biscuits made with mill-inspired ingredients. Try the signature Southern Sweet Cream Waffle with crispy chicken tenders or strawberries and whipped cream, or the Champagne Chicken Enchiladas or Pioneer Taco Salad—and treat yourself to a freshly squeezed Strawberry Lemonade. Can’t get enough of the deliciousness? The adjacent River Mill Store has the Southern Sweet Cream waffle, pancake and cake mixes, as well as the Champagne Chicken Gravy mix and Pioneer Taco Seasoning, all packaged and ready to go! We recommend you get there early (the restaurant is open daily at 7 a.m.), as The Gunther House doesn’t take reservations, and the weekends are especially busy. guentherhouse.com
PINCH BOIL HOUSE AND BIA BAR
Completely unexpected, yet utterly satisfying, is how we’d describe our introduction to Pinch. Serving “San Antonio Southeast-Asian street food,” the former pop-up concept opened its downtown storefront (just steps away from Hotel Valencia) in 2017 and has rightfully claimed its spot among San Antonio’s hottest dining destinations. Seafood boils (with shrimp, mussels, snow crab or clams) are the most sought-after from the Vietnamese- and Cajun- inspired menu, but don’t make the mistake of dismissing signature items like The Dirty Bird (Pinch’s version of hot fried chicken glazed in Korean Buffalo sauce) and Thai-style Chili Wings. The vibe here may be ultracasual, but the food is definitely serious business. pinchboilhouse.com
TORO KITCHEN + BAR
Let the faint strains of the Spanish guitar entice you to enter this lively downtown hot spot, where you’ll find whole, dry-cured jamón hanging from the ceiling and walls decked with the folklore of matadors and flamenco culture. Without question, it’ll get you in the mood for what’s been hailed as the best paella in San Antonio—the Toro Paella, with jumbo shrimp, mussels, chicken, calamari, pork belly and chorizo, is the restaurant’s classic recipe and a must-try. Since the paella is made to order and takes at least 30 minutes to prepare, we suggest settling in with a flight of Spanish hams and cheeses paired with a glass of sparkling Catalonian rosé or a pitcher of house sangria. If you’re feeling adventurous, try drinking straight from the porrón (a traditional Spanish glass wine pitcher), while the entire dining room cheers you on. Or, delight your taste buds from the Tapas selection: The Pulp a la’ BBQ (Galician octopus with barbecue sauce) and Dátiles al Tocino & Queso (oversized dates stuffed with serrano ham, manchego cheese and wrapped in bacon) are standouts. torokitchenandbar.com
DAVILA’S BBQ
If you’re in town for more than a couple of days, do yourself a favor and take the 45-minute drive to Seguin, Texas, where you’ll find Davila’s BBQ, a no-frills establishment that’s been dishing up barbecue excellence since 1959. Star chef Adrian Davila, who won Food Network’s “BBQ Blitz” in 2015, is a third-generation pit master who takes pride in “vaquero-style cooking” borne out of his family’s recipes. During our visit, Davila’s father, Edward, proudly showed off the restaurant’s wood-fired pit, an indirect-heat smoker he designed himself. Mesquite is the preferred wood for smoking, producing the euphoria-inducing BBQ Lamb and the intensely flavorful BBQ Sausage (made from the recipes of Edward’s father, Raul, who opened the joint 60 years ago). Looking for something other than a barbecue platter? Order the eye-popping Matador Nachos or the kicked-up Frito Pie with chopped beef and sausage. davilasbbq.com
DORCOL DISTILLING + BREWING CO.
Located in trendy Southtown, Dorćol has become the fastest-growing independent brewery in Texas, according to the Brewers Association. The distillery/brewery hybrid made a name for itself with its inaugural spirit, Kinsman Apricot Rakia, a small-batch brandy inspired by one of the owners’ Eastern European roots. But there is more to Dorćol’s allure than just the brandy. Its combination bar/event space setting is completely in vogue, and the spirits and cocktail menu is formidable stuff. The Eastside (rakia, lime, mint, sugar and cucumber), Bee’s Knees (rakia, honey, lemon), and Day & Night (rakia-thai chili-strawberry infusion, raspberries and ginger beer) were among those that caught our eye. dorcolspirits.com
SEE:
SAN ANTONIO MISSIONS NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK
A guided bike tour via Mission Adventure Tours is the best way to experience the beauty and history of these sacred sites. The San Antonio Missions—once home to American Indians and the Spanish Franciscans, who sought to convert them to Catholicism and loyalty to the Crown in exchange for food and refuge—were established along the San Antonio River in the 1700s. A leisurely bike ride (we opted for the 4-hour, 15-mile tour) through the idyllic Hike & Bike Trail in the Mission Reach section of the San Antonio River gave us a closer look and better understanding of life in the missions, such as the 300-year-old Espada dam, ditch and aqueduct system that provided water to the missions, as well as poignant points of interest, including a memorial tree planted for President John F. Kennedy, who spent his last full day in San Antonio before that fateful trip to Dallas. For more information on San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, visit nps.gov/saan; for bike tours, visit Mission Adventure Tours, missionadventuretours.com
GO RIO BOAT CRUISE
Explore the city’s River Walk during a narrated, 35-minute tour packed with historical, architectural and anecdotal information, courtesy of boat captains who know all there is to know about San Antonio’s most famous destination. Your carriage comes in the form of colorful electric barges that offer prime seating to view the plethora of notable spots, like La Villita, the city’s first neighborhood; and the Hyatt Regency Hotel, which was specifically designed so that the building’s height would not cast a shadow on the Alamo at sunset. goriocruises.com
PEARL
Take a short drive north of downtown to get a feel for what the locals like to do: Pearl is a culinary and cultural gathering spot built on the former site of Pearl Brewery, which operated from 1883 to 2001. Today, Pearl is a cornucopia of fun, home to the Texas campus of the Culinary Institute of America, a year-round farmers market, a luxury hotel, boutiques, restaurants and a bustling food hall. It’s a perfect place for people-watching, or just lazing around in the sun—bring a blanket! atpearl.com
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