Chef Conversations: Bethany Budde of SqWires

SqWires chef-owner Bethany Budde

When opportunity comes knocking it often knocks on doors in your own neighborhood. Such was the case for Bethany Budde.  She had been searching for a space to establish her own event venue and deli when developers came to her neighborhood association meeting. Their plans? To redevelop the old Western Wire Factory site.

As fate would have it, the developer’s plan included space that was just what Budde had been looking for. Space that became the landmark Lafayette Square eatery, SqWires Restaurant and Market.

“It was exactly what I was looking for, and it was in my neighborhood,” Budde said.” My husband is an architect and together, we designed the space. We kept to old industrial elements like the pulleys and the ceilings open, which made sense. It kept it an open inviting space.”

SqWires’ dining room retained many of the elements left behind from the days the building housed the Western Wire Factory photo courtesy of SqWires

SqWires Restaurant and Market opened Oct. 17, 2001. The name combined the words “square” for Lafayette Square and “wires” as a nod to the wire factory, thus SqWires.

It’s an eclectic space featuring spacious warm wood interiors with two events spaces, The Annex for large groups and The Front Room, perfect for smaller gatherings.

Budde added a covered patio for al fresco dining and sipping libations. It’s also where the annual patio barbecues are held each Thursday from Memorial Day to the last Thursday until Labor Day. The barbecues offer pit-smoked meat dinners paired with live music. After Labor Day, when barbecue ends, look for  Fried Chicken Thursday. But don’t look for fried chicken on the menu until then – you won’t find it.

“Fried chicken won’t be available until after Labor Day, and then only on Thursdays for our Fried Chicken Thursday. It replaces the patio barbecues,” Budde explained. “We don’t make fried chicken until then because it’s a production. We cut-up and bread the chickens we get in fresh from Buttonwood Farms.”

After Labor Day look for Fried Chicken Thursday. photo courtesy of SqWires

Inside SqWires between the restaurant main dining room and The Annex is The Market with grab-and-go deli items, salads, entrees and more.

“We have local beers and package our own craft cocktails to go. We also have lots of gift items from  artists and jewelry makers,” Budde said. “The market features local. It’s important to me to try to support as many independents as possible.”

Supporting local producers has helped make SqWires a cornerstone to the Lafayette Square neighbor and a destination for foodies, thanks to Budde’s Midwestern approach to the menu.

“We’re very Midwestern. We don’t pretend to be anything else,” she said, noting Midwestern faves as meatloaf and pot pies have been on the menu since opening. “We also smoke our own meats – turkey, salmon, chicken and brisket, a favorite that’s on our brunch as Brisket Hash.”

Brunch is extremely popular and is famous for its Bloody Mary and Mimosa bar that’s set with 50 different garnishes.

Finally, save room for a dessert. If Gramma Budde’s Hot Milk Sponge Cake is on the menu, order it. You won’t be disappointed. However, if it’s sold out, Budde suggests baking your own. She happily shared the recipe with Gazelle readers.

Gramma Budde’s Hot Milk Sponge Cake 

Hot Milk Sponge Cake with homemade lemonade photo courtesy of SqWires

3 eggs
1 ½ cups sugar
1 1/2  cups sifted flour
½ tablespoon baking powder
1  teaspoon salt
3/4 cup milk
1/3 stick butter
3/4 teaspoon vanilla

Beat eggs on high speed. Gradually add sugar until lemon color. (This can take up to 5 minutes). Fold sifted flour, baking powder, and salt into eggs and sugar mixture.

Bring butter and milk to boil and add to batter, then add vanilla. Pour batter into a 9×9-inch buttered baking pan.

Bake in a preheated 325-degree oven for about 30 to 35 minutes. Cake is done when it springs back to touch. Serve with whipped cream and fresh summer fruit.

Suzanne Corbett

Suzanne Corbett is an award-winning food and travel writer, author and media producer, whose passion is food, food history, and anything that fills a plate or glass. She is the author of “The Gilded Table,” “Pushcarts & Stalls: The Soulard Market History Cookbook" and “Unique Eats and Eateries of St. Louis.” Always hungry for the next good story, you can follow her on twitter @Suzanne_Corbett or instagram @corbett_suzanne. She can be contacted at sizamnnecorbett@me.com

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