Foodies search for dining options in hopes of finding culinary nirvana. Luckily, during St. Louis summers, the search is easy. Simply book a table at the ultimate pop-up dining venue, The Muny’s Culver Pavilion, where Chef Brad Hartman oversees this season’s buffet productions.
When Hartman arrived at the start of the Muny season, there was little in place outside the collection of the basic menus.
“I started with salt and oil left over from the last season. We had to put it all together from beginning to end. While the menus had been planned, all the additions, recipes and organization were up to me,” Hartman said. “With only a few weeks to get everything set up, some would call it nuts. But we make it happen.”
When asked how he would describe the experience of pulling together the near impossible, he smiled, and said, “We have a kitchen, but with limited space and only eight to 10 weeks to get it together. It’s like summer camp when you work in the outdoors knowing you have to feed the kids. In this case, we’re feeding the adults at a much higher level. But it’s the same idea – we have to get it done and make it wonderful. People have to be happy and roll with the punches.”
Keeping up with the Muny’s schedule, Hartman rolls out his production of pre-show bodacious buffets, nightly – a trick that takes more than Muny magic. It takes training and expertise. Hartman is a proud Jersey boy and graduate of the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, with 40 years of culinary experience – cooking around the world. His skills and experience are reflected in his fresh approach and innovative menus with flavors that pop.
“What I bring to the Muny’s culinary mix is a great understanding of international and world cuisines. I’ve taught and been around the world, which has allowed me to bring together unexpected ingredients in different ways. I believe in clean flavors and keeping it simple.”
Simple doesn’t mean boring. Hartman uses seasonal items and the show’s theme to create extraordinary dishes for his guests to try.
“We did a roasted sweet potato salad with tahini and zaatar (an Arabic spice mixture with toasted seeds and dried sumac). Not knowing the customer base here, we still tried it,” he said. “It was one of the most popular items out there. It illustrates how the St. Louis palate has been developing and how the restaurant scene has evolved since I arrived here 28 years ago. And that’s exciting to me.”
The Culver Pavilion buffet menu always endeavors to include an item or two to reflect the current show. Not always easy. For example, while “1776” plays well as a musical, popular foods from that show wouldn’t necessarily garner a standing ovation from 21st-century diners. In such cases, Hartman looks for an unusual ingredient and relies on creativity for a tie-in dish. Case in point, the glass noodle salad for “Cinderella.”
“I would have loved to have done something with pumpkin for ‘Cinderella,’ but fresh pumpkin isn’t in season,” he said.
The Culver Pavilion buffet always includes seven salads and cold items. Two of which are green salads of some sort.
“When you look at the menu, at first glance it looks like a traditional buffet menu. Yet, much of it is gluten-free,” Hartman said. “We don’t use flour to thicken anything. We’re using cornstarch and arrowroot. And we use vegetable stock, which helps meet the concerns of vegetarians looking to eat from the buffet.”
The challenge, according to Hartman, is striking a balance everyone can enjoy while offering a variety of flavor profiles – even those that could be spicy.
“Spiciness is dangerous because there are many people offended by it. So I look for balance. I look for the tingle, not the burn. I want to feel the heat when it should be there, but then have it fade when it should,” Hartman said. “A good example of that was the Avocado Cucumber Thai Soup we did a couple of weeks back. Its spice level made it pleasant and interesting. For the Fried Coconut Shrimp featured during ‘1776,’ I wanted to add a little more flavor beyond the classic cocktail sauce. I decided to add a Mango Chutney Sauce. It gave the shrimp a fresh flavor, a little something different for guests to try.”
The Mango Chutney Sauce was a smash hit. You can enjoy an encore performance of it at home to add to your own menu, thanks to Hartman sharing the recipe.
Dining at The Muny is as fleeting as its season, which ends with the final performance of Roald Dahl’s “Matilda” on Aug. 11. Seating is limited and reservations must be made least 24 hours in advance by calling 314-361-1900, Ext. 575. The Culver Pavilion opens at 6:30 p.m. each evening and accepts reservations for 6:30, 6:45 and 7 p.m.
Chef Brad Hartman’s Quick Mango Chutney
2 cups diced yellow onions
1 tablespoon garlic
1 1/2 tablespoon crystallized ginger
1 1/2 cups brown sugar
3/4 cup cider vinegar
Pinch of cinnamon (about 1/4 teaspoon)
1 teaspoon whole grain mustard
1/4 cup diced pimento
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups diced fresh or frozen mango
Combine all the ingredients into a 2 1/3-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce heat to simmer, and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and puree using a hand-held blender or food processor. Chill. Thin sauce with water as needed. Store in refrigerator. Makes about 4 cups
