Waiting for spring to arrive, there is little to get excited about, except for one thing – Lenten fish fries, a tradition I particularly give thanks for this year.
I was concerned that the pandemic, which has already forced countless restaurant closures, would once again force the cancellation of community fish fries. Thankfully, my prayers have been answered. I’m delighted to report the fish is still frying.
Churches have pivoted to provide drive-thru dinners to go. Local chefs have reimagined Friday’s “catch of the day” by offering their own fresh take on take-out fish. Collectively, that’s good news. We can use as many outlets as possible to satisfy the appetites of the fish and seafood lovers.
Counted among the hungry, I lined up last week at American Legion Post 400 in Fenton, Missouri, arriving at 5 p.m., in hopes of beating the dinner rush. I was wrong. The fish supply was getting low.
“We’ve been open since 3 o’clock, and have already gone through 80 cases of cod. And that‘s not counting the shrimp and catfish, ” said Beth Trog, who volunteers with her fry dad, Syd, the Legion Post 400 fish fry chairman. “I think we’re getting bigger crowds this year because there are several churches nearby that have canceled their fish fries. We’re also one of the few fish fries where you can dine in.”
Local restaurateurs are praying fish-craving customers will line up, dine in or call for carryouts, which will help provide a business boost after a year of tight restrictions. Luckily, inside dining in St. Louis City and County have improved, with restrictions allowing for more tables to enjoy Lenten seafood specials.
Rich LoRusso, chef owner of LoRusso’s Cucina, has plenty of fish to fry. Fried cod plates piled with either a half or full pound of fish, along with cod sandwiches are two of his Lenten fish fry carryout specials, available on both Wednesdays and Fridays.
For those wishing to dine in, LoRusso’s offers five diverse seafood options, including a blackened grouper crowned with grilled asparagus and tomato relish – a dish also offered for take out – a delightful alternative to the perennial fried cod, which still remains a customer favorite that’s prepared with an Italian accent. LoRusso’s hand dips its fish in a seasoned batter made with Moretti Italian beer.
Beer-battered fish has become a preferred method used by chefs and cooks. Stephen Hale, the founding brewer at Schlafly’s, stirs a brew into the batter to create Schlafly’s famous Fish & Fries, a house perennial specialty available for dine in and curbside pickup at all three brewpub locations.
When asked which brew is best to use in the batter, Hale recommended a Hefeweizen, a full-bodied, unfiltered wheat ale.
“Hefeweizen is the perfect beer to use when making our famous Fish & Fries. Its light yet flavorful character adds to the airy, delectable character of the batter on the fish,” he said. “Cooking with an unfiltered beer also helps elevate the perfection of the fish that’s light, airy and delicious – a perfect match with our Schlafly Pale Ale.”
Fish fry season ends on Good Friday, which this year, is April 2. That’s enough time to try a variety of fish fries held at nonprofit venues and locally owned restaurants. A few standouts that have made my list to try are the ethnic fish fries: St. Cecilia’s Mexican Fish Fry, Holy Trinity Serbian Fish Fry and St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church, where spanakopita and baklava are on the menu.
Before this year’s fish fry season ends, consider something a little different, such as Yellowbelly’s Lobster Taquitos and Rum Battered Cod. And for those looking for something beyond deep-fried, Retreat’s Gastropub’s Smoked Salmon Dip is a small plate worth sampling. However, I do plan to try frying a batch of fish myself – beer-battered fish with the help of the following recipe, courtesy of Stephen Hale and Schlafly’s.
SCHLAFLY’S BEER-BATTERED FISH
Servings: 6
2 cups flour
1/3 cup corn starch
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 tablespoon baking soda
1 12-oz Schlafly Hefeweizen Ale
Combine all dry ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Add Schlafly Hefeweizen beer and stir until creamy (like pancake batter). Add two inches of frying oil to a pan. Heat oil to 375 F. Pat fish dry with a paper towel. Dip fish, one at a time, into beer batter. Add beer-battered fish to the heated oil. Cook three to four pieces at a time. Cook fish two to three minutes per side. Place cooked fish on a baking rack to cool (place in a preheated 250 F oven to keep warm while remaining fish cooks).
