Hot Springs is a revelation, a unique spot on the map nestled in the Ouachita Mountains of Arkansas. A resort town since the mid-19th century, Native Americans once called it “the Valley of the Vapors” after experiencing its naturally derived thermal spring waters for many, many years, up until European settlers claimed the area in the 1500s.
The “hot” in Hot Springs refers to the mineral-rich water, which flows from the springs at an average temperature of 143 degrees, producing almost 1 million gallons of water daily.
When President Andrew Jackson designated Hot Springs as a federal reservation in 1832, it essentially became America’s first national park, transforming the sleepy frontier town into a sought-after spa destination by tourists in search of the restorative properties of the springs. In 1921, Hot Springs Reservation became Hot Springs National Park.
Bathhouse Row, which runs parallel to the park, is the other main draw in the center of town, with Victorian-style buildings lining Central Avenue in all their architectural splendor. The bathhouses were built and designed to take in the water from the park, a technique still used today, in which the water is pumped into downtown hotels, spas and even a brewery. There are even fountains downtown where hot or cool spring water is accessible for public use.
STAY:
THE RESERVE AT HOT SPRINGS
There are not enough words to describe this jewel of a find just a mere five-minute drive from downtown. The Reserve is a sanctuary, a serene hideaway with an attentive team whose attention to detail impressed us from the moment we stepped inside.
Known as the former W.C. Brown house, the property on Central Avenue is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Built around 1890, the 21-room classical revival mansion sits on 4 acres of land on one of the town’s main thoroughfares and within walking distance of the storied Oaklawn Racing Casino Resort.
When it debuted as The Reserve in the summer of 2021, the mansion had been scrupulously restored to its Gilded Age grandeur and reincarnated as an upscale boutique hotel by Rhonda and Mark McMurry. And while The Reserve may be a relative newcomer to the hospitality scene, the McMurrys, along with a staff that includes their son, Nathan, as property manager and daughter-in-law Katelyn as managing director, are consummate pros. They are hands-on innkeepers; and during our stay, at least one family member was there to welcome us upon check-in, greet us at breakfast or send us off with a delectable dessert before bedtime.
The McMurrys and their team have that rare keenness that anticipates their guests’ every need, whether it be a 24-hour coffee, tea and cocoa bar, a beverage cooler stocked with everything from energy drinks to spring water, or a snack pantry to soothe the midday munchies.
Each of the mansion’s six rooms is spacious and well-appointed, with king-sized beds, luxurious linens and marble baths supplied with plush robes and Italian toiletries. But perhaps the best feature of our second-floor Mountain Valley Room was its accessibility to the adjacent veranda, where we savored twilight time each evening with a cool beverage or hot tea and dessert that was thoughtfully set aside for us with a handwritten note.
Exploring the mansion from one room to another comes with historical context, and Rhonda and Mark are more than happy to oblige with their first-hand experience of restoring the home. There’s a fascinating story behind the gorgeous custom wallpaper in the dining room and it was a treat to have Mark tell us all about it.
It’s no surprise the dining room is a popular spot – it’s where guests gather for those sumptuous three-course breakfasts The Reserve is known for. For our first morning, our meal consisted of cold strawberry soup for an amuse bouche; short-rib hash with squash, potatoes and spinach topped with gravy for the main course; and buttermilk blueberry pancakes for the sweet finale. Another meal had blueberry compote, fresh berries and apples in Greek yogurt to start; followed by eggs Benedict drizzled with roasted red pepper cream sauce; and raspberry cake with crème anglaise. The exquisite offerings are crafted by in-house executive chef Josh Davis, who is known for combining Southern comfort cuisine with his classical French culinary training.
Be sure to also explore the rest of the estate, which includes venue spaces and two new options for lodging in luxury. The gardens and other outdoor areas are a bonus, providing respite and relaxation any time of the day.
SEE:
OAKLAWN RACING CASINO RESORT
One of Hot Spring’s biggest attractions had its beginnings at the turn of the 20th century, when the owners of the Southern Club and Turf Exchange, a popular downtown night spot, formed the Oaklawn Jockey Club and built a racetrack where the casino and resort property now stands.
Among the founding partners of Oaklawn were brothers Louis and Charles Cella of St. Louis, whose family has a long history of involvement with the horse racing industry in the Midwest. The Cella family has owned and operated Oaklawn since 1916. Today, Charles A. Cella (Louis’ great-grandson) runs the family business, taking over the reins in 2017 following the death of his father, Charles J. Cella.
The track’s pedigree includes hosting some of the most famous names in the history of the sport, as well as being home to the Racing Festival of the South and the Arkansas Derby. When Oaklawn’s glass-enclosed, heated grandstand was built in 1904, it was among the first of its kind in the country.
These days, the best spot to take in all the racing action is at the Jockey Club, where you can enjoy a buffet, or order from a menu consisting of oysters on the half-shell, shrimp cocktail, the club’s famous corned beef on rye and more. Proper race-day attire – jackets for men, dresses or slacks for women – is required at the club, so by all means, wear that fascinator!
For upscale dining to celebrate your winnings (or as a consolation prize), try the OAK room & bar, located in the casino. Menu highlights include classic steak cuts such as the Filet Mignon and the Prime N.Y Strip, or seafood standouts like Almond Crusted Trout and Hawaiian Red Ahi Tuna.
QUAPAW BATHS & SPA
No visit to Hot Springs is complete without the bathhouse experience. The Quapaw, one of two original bathhouses still in operation today, is a stunning Spanish Colonial revival structure built in 1922. And while the building itself is a century old, the bathhouse offers modern-day amenities, including mineral-water pools of varying thermal degrees, private baths, spa services and a steam cave.
On our visit, we began by soaking in the thermal pools, switching between temperatures of 98 and 102 degrees every 20 minutes. We followed with it a private bath, choosing the spa’s Microsilk Hydrotherapy treatment, which is infused with millions of microbubbles, creating a cleansing, effervescent sensation as the bubbles worked to deliver oxygen into the skin. The treatment is said to do wonders for the skin, encouraging cell growth, while helping to reduce wrinkles and scar formation. The cool, cucumber-mint towels at the conclusion of the service were a welcome treat!
GARVAN WOODLAND GARDENS
Garvan is the botanical garden of the University of Arkansas, set along a 4 ½-mile wooded shoreline of Lake Hamilton amid the Ouachitas. Its beauty is apparent at every turn, from the sea of springtime daffodils, tulips and azaleas to the impressive variety of Asian maples that dot the landscape. The 4-acre Japanese garden is lush and picturesque, with waterfalls, springs and an aptly named Full Moon Bridge that is a marvel to behold. Set aside a morning or an afternoon exploring this oasis, which is approximately a 15-minute drive from downtown.
HOT SPRINGS MOUNTAIN TOWER
Take in the town and surrounding area with a bird’s eye view, courtesy of the Hot Springs Mountain Tower. There are two ways to get there: Drive the scenic route to the base of the tower or hike the 1 ½-mile trail from downtown. The tower’s observation deck, perched 216 feet high, provides a panoramic view of the Ouachitas, Hot Springs Mountain, the Diamond Lakes area and, of course, downtown Hot Springs.
SAVOR:
SUPERIOR BATHHOUSE BREWERY
You could say drinking the house brew at The Superior could do wonders. After all, it’s the only brewery in America that uses thermal spring water in its beer.
Long before the restaurant opened, The Superior served as a bathhouse – the longest continuously operating of all bathhouses before it closed in 1983. When it was built in 1916, The Superior was the smallest building on Bathhouse Row. Yet despite its relatively modest appearance, it touted “superior” services focusing on the healing waters.
When it opened as a restaurant and small-batch brewery in 2014, The Superior became the only establishment of its kind in a national park. And it’s not just a gimmick: The Superior truly delivers a food and drink menu you can write home about. You can tell a lot of thought went into the food when even the most ubiquitous of items, like the Bavarian Soft Pretzel and Beer Cheese, are a must. The burgers – all of them – are top notch. And while we do realize the main attraction here is the beer (we tried the Killer, an Irish red, and the Spicy Ride jalapeño ale), do yourself a favor and try the Famous Root Beer Float. The root beer is also brewed in-house using the spring water, giving it a lighter, smoother mouthfeel and just plain deliciousness.
MCLARD’S BAR-B-Q
McClard’s, a Hot Springs institution since 1928, is now in its fourth generation. The family credits its success to a traveler who gave Alex and Alice McClard his recipe for “the world’s greatest barbecue sauce” as a form of payment for staying at their tourist court because he couldn’t afford the $10 bill.
The rest, they say, is history. In addition to the sauce, McClard’s has become known for its hickory-smoked beef, pork, ribs and more. And if you’re really hungry, try the over-the-top Tamale Plate with chopped beef, Fritos, beans, cheese and onions – you have to see it to believe it!
Hungry for your own Hot Springs adventure? The best place to start is with Visit Hot Springs, the town’s official site for lodging, dining, attractions and other recommendations.
